Confronting Mortality: Exploring funeral traditions in western Georgia

Author: Mariam Menteshashvili
25.06.24

Death is the final social experience we undergo as human beings. Yet, confronting death remains one of the greatest taboos across numerous cultures. We often attempt to conceal it at all costs, averting our gaze when life confronts us with its presence. 

I distinctly recall the moment I realized my relationship with death differed from that of others. It was while sitting in a Southeast London pub after finishing my lectures, when one of my English friends recounted his trauma from witnessing the slaughter of chickens during his travels to West Africa. As he spoke, memories flooded my mind of holding chicken heads as a child during my summer holidays in Sighnaghi, while my grandmother peacefully prepared dinner. It dawned on me then that death, as a concept, was a familiar companion to me, unlike my English peers.

Following my grandmother's passing, I embarked on a journey through the photo albums and notebooks she left behind. Tucked away in the back of a thick family album, I discovered a black envelope. Black envelopes often hold secrets, so I promptly opened it, revealing a photograph of a deceased girl lying in a coffin adorned with flowers, with three women standing beside it. Among them, I recognized my great-grandmother, Mariam. The back of the photo bore a note: “Our third sister, Ira.” This image began to haunt me. Clearly taken by a professional photographer hired by the family for the funeral, I pondered why they chose to capture this moment and why my grandmother had kept the photo for over 70 years. It struck me that my grandmother's family was not alone in their practice of preserving memories of death. Numerous post-mortem pictures are archived at the National Archive of Georgia, illustrating that death is a communal event, not merely a private ordeal endured by individual families.

A photo from the National Archive of Georgia shows family and neighbors gathering around the deceased in Khoni, a town in the western Georgian region of Imereti. The exact year is unknown. As a sign of grief, all women have their hair down, while the men are wearing traditional Georgian clothing known as a chokha.

A photo from the National Archive of Georgia captures a scene of grieving in Samtredia, western Georgia. Four women are gathered around their deceased family member. Post-mortem photography gained popularity in Georgia at the beginning of the 20th century. It wasn't limited to depicting funerals of public figures; ordinary families also hired photographers to preserve the last memory of their departed loved ones. Typically, post-mortem photos were taken with a coffin, which sets this photograph apart from the traditional way of documenting death. The exact year is unknown.

The funeral of a young child in Chiatura, 1918. Digitized copies of these photos, preserved in the Mules family archive, were transferred to the National Archives of Georgia with the support of the Belgian Institute of Social History in 2013.

A funeral in Chiatura, 1918. Chiatura, located in the Imereti region in western Georgia. In the photo, a man is being buried while wearing a traditional hat common in the South Caucasus.

Funeral in Darkveti, Chiatura, western Georgia, 1918. As the burial procedures commence, attendees are requested to leave the cemetery. It is customary to depart before the conclusion of the burial as remaining until the end is regarded as unlucky.

Death rituals in Georgia bring the deceased into the public eye, allowing everyone to share the existential burden collectively. Most death-related rituals to this day are conducted in people’s homes, where the body remains in the living room for up to five days. Funerals take place only on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. In smaller villages, neighbors even refrain from turning on the TV as a sign of respect to the grieving family.

Samegrelo, a region in western Georgia, has its unique approach to death. Among all parts of Georgia, Samegrelo stands out for its extensive use of visual tools to represent death and honor the deceased. During my week in Samegrelo, I encountered two families grieving in the village of Lia. Older generations in Samegrelo are accustomed to cameras during death rituals, as in the 1990s, they often hired videographers to document wakes and funerals.

While explaining my interest in capturing these moments to the villagers, they expressed sadness over the globalization of death customs. Fewer people adhere to traditional funeral practices, opting instead to hire companies to manage the rituals.

Village of Lia in Tsalenjikha District, Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti Region. Lia is a small village with a population of 1523 people. It is 22 kilometers away from the administrative center of Samegrelo, Zugdidi. While I was staying in Zugdidi the locals told me there were two families grieving in the village Lia. Samegrelo is very interconnected: people have family members across different cities and villages. Consequently, news, particularly concerning matters of death, spreads rapidly throughout the region.

The main cemetery of the village Lia is the first thing visitors see as they approach the village. The cemetery is just next to the main road. Family burial plots are enclosed in metal structures.

Gravestones at the Lia cemetery. An image of the deceased is the central attribute for a Georgian cemetery. With the changing times photos on the graves became colorful instead of black and white. One of the locals even told me that nowadays there’s a more luxurious option: glass instead of stone. In Georgian culture, families take pride in caring for the grave of a family member.

A small wooden house behind the main residence serves as a gathering place for neighbors and guests, who pool funds to support the family of the deceased. With funeral expenses often presenting unexpected financial burdens, this communal effort alleviates some of the financial strain on the grieving family.

 In Samegrelo, it's customary for family members to bring wine when visiting the cemetery, often accompanied by tangerines left as offerings. On Easter Monday, families gather to visit cemeteries together, ensuring the space is cleaned and maintained. It's a tradition to place a symbolic glass of wine near the grave and light candles as a mark of respect and remembrance.

A family in Lia gathers on the day of the funeral, with guests arriving to pay their respects. Unlike other regions of Georgia where guests typically circle the deceased, in Samegrelo tradition, the family remains at the center of the room and instead of circling the coffin the guest will just approach the family members and express their condolences. Throughout the day, the family offers food and drinks to their visitors.

Family members traveling from afar arrived early on the day of the funeral. Behind the house, the family has prepared a separate area, known as the sepa, to accommodate and feed the guests. Unlike in other regions of Georgia, in Samegrelo, the funeral-related menu traditionally doesn’t include any meat as a sign of modesty and grief. After the funeral, guests and the family reunite for a kelekhi, a larger feast that typically lasts until the end of the day.

Two houses down from the first funeral, another family in Lia mourned their loss. Close relatives and neighbors typically join the family members in the mourning room. It's common for women to remain inside the room, offering support and consolation, while men gather outside the house, standing in solidarity with the grieving family.

The road leading to Phakhulani, a village in Tsalendjikha district, Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti region, runs alongside the administrative line. Phakhulani is located approximately five kilometers from Lia.

In Phakhulani, near the school building, lies a cemetery adorned with a striking monument in the shape of a car, visible from afar. In Samegrelo, it is common to see busts of deceased ones at cemeteries, but the uniqueness of this particular monument has made it exceptionally popular throughout the Samegrelo region.

Ruben Shonia died young in a car accident in the 1960s. His friends decided to put up a car monument on his grave as the last gift to their beloved friend. It took them six months to create the monument.

A scene of the Caucasus Mountains, captured on the journey back to Zugdidi.

Zugdidi cemetery near the Church of Jesus the Christ. The oldest cemetery in Zugdidi, it overlooks the Caucasus mountains and the entire city.


This Photo story was produced in the framework of Chai Khana Fellowship program - Spring 2024


This photo story was prepared with support from the Friedrich-Ebert-Stiftung (FES) South Caucasus Regional Office. All opinions expressed are the author’s alone, and do not necessarily reflect the views of FES.


Special thanks to Besik Arakhamia and to the Central Library of Zugdidi for the support during the research process

 

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