Photo Story
In recent years, a growing number of Iranian men have been supporting their families as long-haul truck drivers, moving cargo from the cities and ports of Iran across the South Caucasus and into Europe and Russia. Their routes are part of a major trade corridor that runs through Azerbaijan and Georgia via the South Caucasus and the Black Sea. For governments and companies, the cargo they transport represents booming trade that is bolstering economies and building fortunes.
For the Iranian truck drivers, however, the complexities of international trade boil down to weeks and months on the road, with limited contact with their families and loved ones. It is an arduous job in a foreign land, with limited access to healthcare and safe places to clean up and do laundry. Their time on the road depends on the load they are carrying and how much money they want to earn. Some trips are short—drop offs in Georgia and immediate returns to Iran, a round-way journey of roughly 2500 km or more. Others travel even further distances, hauling cargo from Iran to distant ports in Europe or Turkey.
Some truck drivers bring family members along for company but most spend long periods in complete solitude, which takes a serious toll on their mental and physical health. It also makes it difficult to maintain close ties to their loved ones—all the more challenging as many are the head of their household in Iran's male-dominated society, where men play a prominent role deciding family matters. The long hours on the road quickly erode any sense of community despite access to social media and video calls. In Georgia, the growing number of Iranian drivers has led to Iranian restaurants and cafes opening along the most common routes, which provide some reprieve from the long hours of boredom and give the men a safe place to bathe, eat a hot meal, and wash their clothes. These rest stops and cafes have become an oasis where the men can relax and enjoy some comforts from home.
As an immigrant who has lived the last ten years of his life almost alone, I understand the depth and severity of loneliness these men suffer—and the situation has only gotten worse since the Covid pandemic, despite the rise of online communication.
I strongly believe that we need to find a solution to this crisis. This community provides a solid example of a part of our society that is forced into loneliness and its side effects by the demands of their job. Today, we are happy to have near immediate access to the goods these men transport—I hope this photo essay inspires us to think more carefully about the true cost to the drivers and their families.
Tbilisi, Georgia - Akbar prepares tea at his truck's kitchen, or box as truckers say, on the outskirts of Tbilisi. Hundreds of Iranian truck drivers transport cargo through Georgia.Working as a trucker means spending most of their time far from their loved ones, which makes it difficult to care for their mental and physical health. They are fully responsible for their well-being, which means they have to be good at everything from car maintenance to cooking, first aid, local languages, and much more.
Tbilisi, Georgia - Iranian truck drivers spend time at Mazyar Restaurant on the outskirts of Tbilisi. The community has expanded over the time. Iranian truckers currently frequent several truck parking spots around Tbilisi as well as other cities around the country.
Tbilisi, Georgia - After unloading their goods, drivers may spend several days with nothing to do in the outskirts of Tbilisi while they wait for another load of goods to transfer. Waiting for an unknown period of time while being far away from their loved ones is quite challenging; many of them can't spend more than a few days every two or three months with their families.
Tbilisi, Georgia – Women are rare in this male-dominant community. Mazyar, the owner of the restaurant, moved to Tbilisi a decade ago after hearing about the large number of Iranian truck drivers around Tbilisi and the demand for a comfortable place to spend time and eat familiar food.
Tbilisi, Georgia - A group of Iranian truck drivers enjoy a beer and kebab at an Iranian restaurant. This and other similar places help them feel more connected to their homeland while they are far from their families.
Tbilisi, Georgia - This modest Iranian restaurant at a truck stop on the outskirt of Tbilisi has turned into a favorite hangout for Iranian truckers. Nearly everything here comes from Iran, creating a nostalgic vibe for the customers.
Tbilisi, Georgia - Many Iranian drivers buy trucks with Georgian license plates as it is cheaper than registering an Iranian truck. However, that means they cannot spend a lot of time in Iran due to the country’s high taxes on foreign registered vehicles. Iranian truck drivers who can afford to register their vehicle in Iran can spend less time on the road.
Georgia-Azerbaijan border - Ali spends long hours in his truck waiting for the line to move forward. It is common for drivers to spend three to four days stuck at border crossings before they can enter the next country. The lines can stretch for kilometers but showers and other facilities are only available at the border itself, meaning that drivers do not have access to proper facilities for days.
Georgia-Azerbaijan border - Ali relies on a few personal belongings to pass the time when he is stuck at a border crossing.
Tbilisi, Georgia - Akbar lights a cigarette during a video call with his family in Iran. Sometimes, it is challenging to manage family issues during long trips abroad. Fortunately, technology and social media have helped drivers stay in contact with their families. When he is not talking to his family, Akbar usually spends his time watching his favorite movies on his phone.
Tbilisi, Georgia - Akbar is waiting for his turn to unload the goods he imported from Iran the day before. After arriving at Tbilisi, he has to report his cargo to customs officials before heading to the delivery spot.
Tbilisi, Georgia - Akbar unloads his trailer after a long journey. His arm was injured a few weeks ago during loading but he hasn’t been able to see a doctor because he is constantly on the road with limited insurance coverage and access to medical care.
Tbilisi, Georgia - Akbar unloads the metal products he transported from Iran. Metal goods produced in Esfahan (Isfahan) are among the main exports of Iran to Georgia. Esfahan is a major metal producer and, despite international sanctions, it still makes up a large part of Iran’s exports.
Tbilisi, Georgia - Akbar prepares to unload the cargo he brought from Iran. He usually transports metal products from Esfahan to Tbilisi. The round trip is 2800 km.
Tbilisi, Georgia - Ebrahim unloads rebar—reinforcing steel bars used in construction--he brought from Iran. Construction material is one of the main exports of Iran to Georgia.
Tbilisi, Georgia - Ismail combing his hair before going to bed. For these men, their truck cabs are home for days and weeks at a time. Everything they need—a bed, fridge, storage—must fit inside.
Tbilisi, Georgia - Ismail heads to bed after a long day. The cramped space inside his truck cab is home while he is on the road.
Tbilisi, Georgia - Ismail rests after a long day on the road. Iranian long-haul truck drivers must prepare themselves for days and weeks away from their families, and create a safe space for rest and relaxing in their truck cabs.
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