It was freezing - snowy, icy, and foggy. The road to Kandovan was covered by a thick layer of powdery snow, but as the car was hardly able to proceed, it was hard to find it charming. The taxi driver, a woman from Djulfa [Close to the Azerbaijani border with Nakhchivan], vowed to reach the world’s last cave village, but in the middle of nowhere she stopped the car and told that she cannot go further. Kandovan was less than five kilometres away, but it could as well have been on another planet stuck as we were in that frosty land. Then a man on a larger car drove by, picked us up, and saved us.
The village was enveloped in fog and hardly visible. Not that its dwellings are apparent in the clear sky - its 600 villagers live in cave houses carved out from volcanic rock. From afar the village looks like a gigantic termite colony. Tucked away in a remote corner of north-eastern Iran, Kandovan is believed to be the last cave settlement - it was reportedly founded 700 years ago by people fleeing the Mongols’ invasion.
Today about 100 families still live in houses shoveled in the mountain, but locals think it will not last. The number is dwindling and as tourism is steadily increasing, locals fear that in less than three decades people will move out and their houses will be turned into hotels.
DONATE NOW