Magazine racks sway gently in the breeze while cardboard boxes double as display shelves for colorful sweaters, novelty socks featuring iconic Georgian imagery. Some vendors offer cigarettes individually, carefully arranged from opened packs. Positioned behind their stalls, they call out prices to passersby, creating a lively atmosphere of commerce. Close by, an older gentleman sits at the edge of the pavement, his worn hands raised, each grasping a chocolate bar, quietly inviting prospective buyers. The occasional bark of stray dogs adds to the cacophony of urban life. This snapshot encapsulates the vibrant and dynamic nature of street vending in the Georgian capital Tbilisi.

Street vending has long been ingrained in Tbilisi urban culture. Dating back to the 19th century, trading districts thrived, with fish from the Mtkvari River being sold on the streets alongside designated areas for wine and vodka trade known as "Sirch Kahanas." Yet, this tradition has undergone significant changes over the years.

Street vending faced official prohibition in 2007. This period marked the beginning of a trend towards privatizing informal shopping spaces, leading to the removal of kiosks and makeshift counters from public areas in favor of supermarkets and modern shopping centers. Following a change in government in 2012, street vendors gradually began to reappear on the sidewalks as public spaces became more accessible to them once again. However, in the first half of 2017, government initiatives aimed at tightening control resulted in continued restrictions on street vending. Successive governments have explained these measures as an effort to bring Georgian public spaces in line with European standards and remove what is seen as an "irritating visual element."

The latest incident of street vending prohibition unfolded on March 30, when a commotion arose near Tbilisi’s Station Square Metro and the historical Dezerteer market as the Municipal Inspection Department dismantled the stalls of vendors who were operating in violation of the law. The department itself shared this information, noting that despite previous warnings, these vendors failed to comply with the law. “These people have been vending here for free for thirty years, yet not a buck from them goes into the state budget. On top of that they demand pension, salary increase, but from where? We don’t interfere in vending, not at all. They just have to work where it’s allowed,” a representative of municipal inspection told Mtavari Arkhi TV channel. 

This year, on January 24 Mayor Kakha Kaladze emphasized this policy during a Tbilisi City Hall meeting, stating, "To ensure our beautiful city remains immaculate, [...] and free from the chaos of street vending, [...] our employees work tirelessly, carrying out their duties around the clock,"

Street vending regulations are governed by the Administrative Offences Code of Georgia. In 2023, amendments were made to this code, strengthening regulations on illegal street vending: fines currently range from 20 to 50 GEL, while failing to obey an authorized personnel carries penalties of 50 to 100 GEL or imprisonment up to seven days. 

While the city government says these measures are meant to improve the appearance of Tbilisi's urban landscape, the impact on vendors and the broader socio-economic context remains a subject of debate and concern among citizens.

Near the Akhmeteli Theater metro station, several newsstands are scattered, drawing the attention of passersby. Among these stands, Gela Beridze, a pensioner, has operated his kiosk for nearly three decades, demonstrating a longstanding presence in the area. Beridze's perspective highlights the comparatively relaxed regulations concerning newspaper kiosks, a situation he links to the need for disseminating government messages. "The government's message needs to reach the people somehow," Beridze remarks, emphasizing the pivotal role of his kiosk in distributing information.

Street vending restrictions, alongside newsstand kiosks, do not apply to flower and book sellers. However, the primary concern lies with vendors peddling a variety of other goods.

Among the vendors who do not have permits are a significant number of pensioners who find themselves unable to pursue alternative employment due to age limits in other job sectors. Forced to support their families, they turn to street vending as their only viable option.

These vendors source their products from diverse corners of the country. Clothing vendors, for instance, carefully choose their goods from Lilo Market, located on the outskirts of Tbilisi. Despite the logistical challenges and transportation costs involved, they undertake this endeavor to provide a diverse and appealing selection for their customers. Others specialize in churchkhelas, a beloved Georgian treat sourced from Kakheti and different regions of Georgia. Despite facing numerous obstacles, these journeys are undertaken with determination, reflecting the resilience of these vendors in challenging circumstances.

The growing number of street vendors without permits has raised concerns about pedestrian congestion and sanitation issues. In response, Tbilisi City Hall has established a supervision service within the Municipal Inspection department. This team conducts routine patrols, focusing on areas known for high concentrations of street vending, including Akhmeteli Theater, Station Square, and Varketili. Their primary goal is to reclaim these spaces from illegal street vendors.

Deputy Head of the Municipal Inspection, Joni Machavariani, explains that the supervision service not only enforces regulations but also seeks to provide practical solutions for vendors. This includes negotiating with nearby private markets and District Administration offices to secure alternative trading spaces and relocate vendors to officially sanctioned market areas. Machavariani emphasizes the importance of communication and cooperation, stating, "We provide advance notice to street vendors before clearing a specific location, and we work closely with market management to facilitate mutually beneficial arrangements, often resulting in discounted rates for vendors.”

At the Akhmeteli Theatre metro station, vendors without permits are positioned directly at the metro exit, resulting in a significant buildup of pedestrian traffic. Vendors can sell goods legally at the Akhmeteli market, which is located directly above the metro station and boasts several entrances. The entrance nearest to the metro station is approximately 50 meters away. Gia Abazadze, head of the Akhmeteli market, recounts numerous attempts to negotiate with street vendors stationed in front of the metro station. For instance, several years ago, he offered counters free of charge and exempted them from rent for three months. Although the vendors initially agreed to these terms, they vacated the counters after the rent-free period and resumed trading in front of the metro station. The vendors who pay for stalls protested. 

Today, Gia notes the supervision service has helped stabilize the situation in the market somewhat. Vendors stationed in front of the subway now emerge only after municipal inspection employees have concluded their working hours, coinciding with the closure of the Akhmeteli market.

The rental fees for market counters span from 200 to 400 GEL, depending on their size. Melano Mgaloblishvili, a pensioner, faces a unique challenge due to the nature of her merchandise, which comfortably fits into a small cardboard box she carries around her neck. Offering three lemons for one GEL, she cannot afford to rent an official space in the market. She reflects, "I purchase a few lemons daily for resale. If I were to rent a counter, what else could I possibly place upon it?"

Funds to pay rent are not the only challenge: the growing popularity of shopping malls and large supermarkets is also taking a toll on traditional street vending.

In February, news surfaced about plans to construct a new shopping center at the site of the Dezerteer market, near the Station Square metro station. The two-floor shopping center, covering a total area of 17,994 square meters, will replace the historical Dezerteer market, a street vending area built in the 1960s. The Tbilisi Architecture Service has greenlit the shopping mall’s application, and construction permits have already been issued, although the building timeline is unknown. Neither City Hall nor the development's owning company has offered further information or made any public statements on the plans.

Maka Lomtadze, a middle-aged fruit trader, is worried about the development. She says neither the Municipal Inspection nor the market management has provided any details about the project. "Vending here is our sole means of livelihood. It feels like we're being pushed toward poverty, like we're being left with nothing," she laments.

Lasha Chkhartishvili, a member of the Labor Party, believes there is a better way. He has been advocating for the rights of street vendors for over a decade. In 2012, he submitted a legislative proposal to the Parliament Sector Economy and Economic Policy Committee. His proposal aimed to persuade Parliament to pass a law that would enable tens of thousands of Georgian citizens to earn a livelihood through self-employment while also ensuring the implementation of organized street vending practices. The 2012 proposal suggests issuing street vending permits for urban and rural streets, squares, and sidewalks, as well as designated recreational areas, with structures occupying no more than half the sidewalk width. It also regulates the sale of perishable items to ensure proper temperature control.

Chkhartishvili emphasized the need for regulating sanitary standards in street vending and stressed the importance of not obstructing citizens' movement. Parliament reviewed his proposal on three separate occasions, approving it once and rejecting it twice after subsequent readings. The activist pointed out a significant contrast between the government's priorities. 

"In a country where cultural heritage is often overlooked, and urban development projects are on the rise, the removal of essential vending structures becomes a matter of principle, reflecting the government's underlying values,” he says. “The improvement of urban aesthetics should not come at the expense of people's ability to make a living." 

Lasha Chkhartishvili argues that by implementing regulations, it will be feasible to retain over 10,000 jobs, which include the sole source of income for an equivalent number of families.

Lado Vardosanidze, an urbanist, asserts that this tradition should not be lost in Tbilisi. He proposes regulating street vending by introducing Western practices, such as arranging special trading places on weekends and creating appropriate conditions for vendors. Vardosanidze emphasizes the role of Tbilisi City Hall in maintaining sanitary measures and providing vendors with the right equipment, stating, "This will serve as an encouragement for local entrepreneurs. If the City Hall invests in this, it won't cause any harm."

This feature story was produced in the framework of Chai Khana Fellowship program - Spring 2024

This feature story was prepared with support from the Friedrich-Ebert-Stiftung (FES) South Caucasus Regional Office. All opinions expressed do not necessarily reflect the views of FES.