Echoes of migration: Azerbaijani birdwatchers battle to protect birds

Photographer: Shahla Abbakirova
14.07.23
Edition: Environment

In Azerbaijan, where birds are highly celebrated in literature and culture, birdwatchers warn overdevelopment, unsustainable agriculture and poaching are putting local and migratory populations at risk.

Birdwatchers like biologists Abdin Abbasov, 34, and guides Zulfu Farajli, 25, and  Elvin Mammadsoy, 30, are trying to protect at-risk bird populations by increasing public awareness and interest in birdwatching. They are also eager to help bring up future generations of local birdwatchers.

Beshbarmag Mountain in Siyazan District, Azerbaijan. Beshbarmag is a migratory bottleneck where birdwatchers count migrating birds. However, the construction of the Baku-Guba highway could pose a threat to the bird counting process and disrupt migratory studies in the area.

“Azerbaijan's uniqueness lies in its diverse landscapes, despite being a small country. From east to west, north to south one can witness various landscapes. This diversity creates a unique habitat for birds, with 410 species, some of which are not found in Europe. Europeans are increasingly interested in visiting Azerbaijan for its unique bird species,” says Abdin Abbasov.

Kurdakhani Lake, Absheron peninsula.“Birdwatching is a matter of the heart, something that comes from within,” explains Abdin Abbasov. “It cannot be forced upon someone from the outside. You can’t become a birdwatcher; it's simply a feeling that arises from within.”

Abbasov started birdwatching in 2012, following a joint Azerbaijani-German bird-watching camp. He says: “There was someone who actually sparked the passion for birdwatching in me, it was Jonathan Etzold (from the University of Greifswald, Germany). I have learned this profession from him, from his behavior in nature, and his reaction to birds.”

Zabrat Lake, Absheron peninsula. Abbasov is proud to popularize the area for birdwatchers; Zabrat and Kurdakhani lakes are home to several species of birds on the International Union for Conservation of Nature’s Red List of Threatened Species as well as the local list.

Kurdakhani and Zabrat lakes are undergoing a process of soil filling. During a recent trip, what appeared to be runoff from a sewage pipe was also leaking into the lake. Abbasov emphasizes the importance of preserving these natural lakes, which serve as vital resting spots for migratory birds.

Zulfu Farajli, a professional guide and co-founder of Birdwatching Azerbaijan, a local organization, has been fascinated by birds his entire life. 

“When I used to come home from school, I had a routine: have lunch and sit on the balcony to watch birds,” he recalls. “As a child, I enjoyed watching documentaries about animals. There is a scene vividly etched in my memory: in our yard a hawk tried to catch one of the sparrows, and I was amazed because I had seen this in documentaries, but now it was happening right before my eyes as if I was watching a National Geographic show.” 

Bulbula lake, Absheron peninsula. Crows gathered around the spot where what appears to be sewage is leaking into the lake.

Farajli and Abbasov met when Farajli started looking online for more information on birds in the Azerbaijani language and discovered that Abbasov was sharing this information through his Facebook page.

Zulfu Farajli’s notebook with bird feathers and their names in different languages: “I wish others do not have to face the same challenges I have. That's when I started blogging. I prepared the first online list of birds in Azerbaijani.”

“Raising awareness and educating [people] about the protection of endangered species, including those listed in the Red Book, is necessary,” Farajli says. “Governmental institutions are responsible for implementing policies, but citizens, public support, and environmental organizations can also play a crucial role. However, creating interest in this topic is challenging in our country due to the social and economic problems faced by people. For someone operating a tractor, their priority is managing the tractor, as their income depends on it, not preserving a bird's nest. In such circumstances, we end up facing more difficulties.”

Abbasov demonstrates a bird pen, which is used to hear calls using a guidebook. “I envy tourists that visit Azerbaijan, they have social benefits and can afford to spend money on bird watching. However, we struggle to do this on our own. We face financial difficulties and also lack the necessary equipment.”

They see hope in teenagers like Elman Imanov, 17, who became interested in birdwatching nearly two years ago.

Farajli (front) and Elman (back). Zulfu: “We haven’t taught him; he had a genuine interest. We invited him to join our tours for free. We also wanted to get to know Elman and hoped to gain more individuals with sincere passion, even if they don't work directly in the environmental field.”

“My school biology teacher told me that there was no future in this field and even called my mother to school to say that they shouldn't waste money on this. After that, I stopped studying,” Elman says. “I will never give up on birdwatching. If you have been infected with it, you won't let it go. Even my parents already accepted it.”

The forested area in Baku’s Bakikhanov district, where Elman usually goes for birdwatching.

Bulbula Lake on the Absheron Peninsula. Elman and Zulfu are looking for white-headed ducks surrounded by construction waste.

Bulbula Lake is Elman’s favorite place to visit in his neighborhood. Previously surrounded by reeds that hosted birds, now there is an ongoing reconstruction to transform it into a park with a lakeside boulevard. Lake infilling and what appear to be pollution from sewage and wastewater have been observed there, too.

Cemeteries (in the background) around the lakes in Absheron are common as municipalities consider them not profitable and rent them out to cemeteries.

Elman got a real-life lesson in the impact of human activity on bird habitats during a recent visit to Bulbula Lake. “When I came here 2-3 months ago, it was all reeds, but when I returned after a week, I was shocked to see that they were all gone,” Elman says. “I wondered where they had disappeared to.”

Bulbula Lake is a host to Red Book species, including the white-headed duck. Usually seen during colder months, this year a couple of them were spotted and registered in May and stayed for the breeding season.

Farajli says he is concerned the construction work could destroy any duck nests and ruin the area as a nesting spot.

While the white-headed duck’s appearance in May caused excitement, it was also a reminder of the toll climate change is taking on birds.

Elvin Mammadsoy, an environmental activist and co-founder of Birdwatching Azerbaijan, notes that birdwatchers have observed migratory changes in several species.

“In our region, there is a saying about the hacı leylək (pilgrim stork). In reality, it is the white stork. The local name originates from the fact that the birds migrate southwards and Mecca is in the south,” he explains. “But for the past 5-10 years, we have been seeing white storks in the southern regions of Azerbaijan. Here subtropical climate allows them to stay during the now less harsh winters and offers sufficient food resources.”

“Birds have become the most important part of nature for me. Birdwatching Azerbaijan was established to promote bird conservation and increase public awareness about birds,” Mammadsoy says.

Mammadsoy’s photo of a lesser gray shrike, which he took at Absheron National Park.

Mammadsoy got hooked on birdwatching after he met Farajli in 2019 and visited Shirvan National Park, which is known as a paradise for birdwatching. Now Farajli proudly says that Elvin is his best student.

Farajli and school children climb Beshbarmag Mountain on a birdwatching tour. “It is very important to start from childhood; with proper education, children can prevent aggression against birds. We would like to organize birdwatching camps for youngsters but unfortunately lack financial resources.”

Mammadsoy is photo-hunting at Absheron National Park for a male Red-headed Bunting to register it in Azerbaijan for the second time. “Birdwatchers have target species and a country list of the in-country species they want to see. This drive is accompanied by a spirit of (healthy) competition to see as many bird species as possible.”



This photo story was prepared with support from the Friedrich-Ebert-Stiftung (FES) South Caucasus Regional Office. Opinions expressed do not necessarily reflect the views of FES.



This photo story was produced in the framework of Chai Khana Fellowship program - Spring 2023.

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